Getting started on the Lady Grey Coat

Right, next project for me is tackling the Lady Grey Coat from Colette Patterns… I love how I signed up for this back when Gertie began her sewalong back in October. So I’m only two months late in starting. Judging by how long it took me to do the McCalls Trench Coat – I should be expecting to finish this one by the summer next year ūüôā And after much umming and aahing, I’m going to try doing it the tailored way. A good coat is worth the effort, don’t you think?

In truth, I have been putting this off as I’m always slower in getting round to doing something if it involves something that I don’t want to do or I perceive it to be more of a hassle. In this case it is a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). But i’m being strict with myself this time – I cannot afford to have another coat that strains at the bust and generally looks ridiculous.

So last night, I got down to it – determined to get this¬†thing over and done with.¬†Having never done an FBA before I got out a sewing book, followed the instructions and just did it. It’s relatively easy to do on a Princess seam pattern, the only problem I found was that on my pattern pieces there¬†are¬†no bust point markings.

So I just worked it out on my own by wearing my toile, getting a sharpie pen and drawing in my nipple line:

The transferring this back to the pattern piece – The purple line that I’ve drawn in:

The final pattern piece.¬†The original pattern I have cut out is a size 12 which is for a 40 inch bust, my bust is 40.5 inches but it just feels like there isn’t enough room, so i’m going to add an 1 inch to each pattern piece and see how that fits.

The other thing I don’t like doing – Toiles/Muslins…. I really am a lazy sewer, if I can find a shortcut, I’ll take it! However the fact that the wool for my coat is pretty pricey and so is the silk lining¬†is spurring me on to get this right. I want a lovely fitted coat, not one that looks like I ran out of money buying the fabric! So no shortcuts!

The other thing that I am mulling over is the sleeve issue. Part of the reason why this pattern appeals to me are the beautiful¬†‘bracelet’ style sleeves. But I’m a realist and this country is cold! And I really¬†hate feeling cold… I only have one pair of long sleeved woolly gloves and I can’t seem to find them at the moment ūüôā So I think¬†for practicality¬†I am going to have to alter them too…

But just to remind you of the yummy fabric combination that I have in mind for this:

I have a Paul Smith Wool blend paired with a purple polka dot silk jacquard lining – I am now officially getting excited!

2 thoughts on “Getting started on the Lady Grey Coat

  1. Karin says:

    Your fabrics look lovely! I am sure I read somewhere that Collette patterns are designed for a C cup rather than the standard B cup that the big 4 design for. So, maybe your FBA won’t be such a big adjustment.

    • Freya says:

      In truth I’ve adjusted it by only an inch and really it’s more so that I can get a woolly jumper underneath it! As you rightly said Colette Patterns do draft a bigger cup size and usually although I am a DD I seem to be able to get away with not adjusting it. Naughty I know but I am a very lazy sewer!

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